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Year: 2009 Page 2 of 6

MYANMAR / Dawei (Tavoy)

This trip was first performed in January 2009.  Info are correct at that time. Dawei is accessible via Yangon Air flight from Yangon Airport (domestic terminal). The flight time was about an hour on ATR aircraft. Tourists need a special permit to visit this city, due to security reasons. The city is home to a naval base, and with close proximity to Thai border, the potential threat from insurgents cannot be downplayed.  Abu Adam revisited this city for the second time in August 2009. Read his story about the city below.

Dawei. Myanmar

Work took me to this remote town of the Myanmar’s southern division of Tanintharyi.  FYI, Myanmar comprises of seven states and seven divisions.  Dawei is a capital city of this division, with population of about 150,000.   Dawei is previously known as Tavoy, during British era. Yangon Airways flies daily to Dawei on ATR72 aircraft from Yangon. Flight time is about an hour.

Dawei is a no-go area for tourist. It means foreigners require special permit to enter the town. Have I told you earlier that some places in Myanmar are restricted to tourists? Yes, tourists need special travel permits to get into some ‘special’ places in Myanmar. It is more for security reasons, due to the fact that the country is ruled by the military. And normally military people are more secretive.

Same as Dawei – you need a special permit to enter the city.  But I am here for a business trip, together with a partner from the Myanmar Government. So he managed all the paperwork to get me into the town legally. We are visiting remote villages in Dawei, more specifically near dusty town Laung Lon leading to a fishing village at the southern tip of a small peninsular facing the Andaman Sea.  In fact our Company has sponsored financially some community programs at these remote villages, as part of our corporate social responsibility to the local people in Myanmar. It has always been the philosophy of our parent company to develop local resources in the country we operate. I am proud of this tradition. Leaving a good legacy is not an option, it is a smart living. Life is so short that you have to make the most out of it. My wife’s cousin — a successful corporate man — died from cancer last month leaving a wife and 4 children me and my wife knew. I regretted a bit because I did not take a time out of my busy schedule despite early notice of his deteriorating condition to visit him during his final days. This is one of my many regrets even though I have been proclaiming to the world that I live a life with no regret.

Lets go back to Dawei.

The town is made up old wooden and mortar buildings along dusty streets. These parallel streets meet other perpendicular ones forming a grid which makes up a downtown area of Dawei. There is one big shopping center. City Hall building is a very old building built by British. There are a number of 2 -3 star hotels and guest houses in the city center, with rate about US40 – 60 per night.

Crossing the bridge over Dawei River, the road will branch to Y shape. To the north, you will see Dawei University to you left and further up will take you to the other  remote villages linked via dirt roads. To the south, you will come to a village called Long Lone and further down other remote villages and eventually to the small fishing village at southern tip of small peninsular. The jouney from Dawei to this fishing village takes about 2 hours by Toyota Land Cruiser. 4WD vehicles are the only way to travel through this dusty mountain roads.

You can see horse carts are used as a public transports.

There is a mosque in the downtown area. I was informed there were three more around Dawei. Moslems are mainly traders and businessmen here. I managed to catch a Friday prayers in the downtown mosque. The khutbah (sermon) was delivered in local dialect with quotes from Koran reminding us to do taqwa (good deeds) and prepare ourselves for the Life Hereafter. The imam said the best of preparation is taqwa. Next to the masjid is a Moslem-owned coffee-shop. We hung around there after Friday prayers and joined locals for a cup of laphayet (“tea_ tarik” = tea with milk).

There is a sea-side village called Maungmagan which is about 45 minutes drive from the city.  I traveled to this beach in August 2009. With miles of clean, white sand and coconut trees,  Maungmagan beach is very scenic. It has everything tourists are looking for in tropical holidays package, minus the hotels and transport. There were few guest houses though, but old and abandoned. The road from Dawei was really bad, not to mention the public transport. There is trade-off in evertyhing we do. The good thing is no rubbish, no plastic bags. Why? Because no tourists. No tourists means no business.

Updating antivirus software on Myanmar National Day

11 November 2009:

Today is a public holiday in Myanmar.

This is my first time celebrating Myanmar National Day. Whats so special about this day? National Day stems from Dec. 5, 1920 when students of Yangon University staged a strike protesting new regulations set by education authorities of then British government.  The strike spread to all high schools in the country. The British then changed the regulations.  This student rebellion  inspired Myanmar’s independence movement.  You see students or I prefer to call them ‘educated teenagers’ are very powerful group of people in any society or organzation. They are change agents. They are many. They have info. Therefore they are powerful. Similar like Taliban movement in Afghanistan and Pakistan. The root word is Arabic Tholibun which means a person who seeks out knowledge.

Imternational School of Yangon is business as usual today. Americans do not respect most of local holidays. They created their own rules even when they are at other people’s country, just like what happened in Iraq or other places they have invaded.  Let us not talk about Americans in this posting, not my intention anyway.

So the house is quiet without kids. Ummi is at swimmimg pool with her friends. I heard they had good time lately, swimmimg for health, covering 30 lapses everyday. So I was left alone at home today. I am supposed to meet Ustaz Rashid to hand over korbani money but he called yesterday that he is busy today. I should have planned a trip to visit my friend’s hometown near Pathein to survey korbani area but I did not.

Myanmar is heaven for IT-inclined in particular gamers and software developers. You could find the latest games, movies or latest software versions, sold in CD or DVD format by street paddlers at incredibly rock bottom price. A DVD with about 60 war movies is available at 1500 kyats (=USD 1.5).  The other day I got myself a CD containing all world best-selling antivirus software for 650kyats. And hello my friends, they are not limited trial copies. It was so surreal that it came complete with license code valid for 66 years. I did not know how they managed to crack this code. I am wondering how Mr Kaspersky or Dr  Norton or Mr Gates be able to sell their original softwares in this country. You cannot blame Myanmar people. They simply cannot afford it.  An original Vista or XP is equivalent to 2-3  months salary of a policeman. We heard an old adage  “great inventions are created out of necessity”, and that statement is very true in Myanmar. This military-run country is under economic sanctions by US and UN. They don’t have many imported goods on CityMart’s shelves. They have to find ways to survive. They must make do with bare essentials that they have so that they can can continue to eat, dress, communicate and travel. You still can find a 30-year old car Mazda 808 or 20-year old Toyota KE on the city road. And I traveled in them sometimes.

An antivirus software valid for 66 years

An antivirus software valid for 66 years

You may label Myanmar a land of contrabands or counterfeits (thats what Lonely Planets said, and even they have a special chapter on their Myanmar travel guide book, whether or not to visit Myanmar), but I beg to disagree. I call it survival and innovation. A tribute to all innovative and creative people in Myanmar, from motor mechanics to software developers, who help run this country, in some way.

MYANMAR / Kanbauk (Thanintaryi Division)

(This is my first trip to Kanbauk in Southern Myanmar in January 2009.  Info on places mentioned in this posting are correct at that time. Also take note that KANBAUK and DAWEI (a.k.a TAVOY) are strictly no-go areas for tourists. Tourists do not normally come here as they need special permit to enter this region. I was here because of official work).

Dawei and Kanbuk is about 30-min flight apart

Yangon Air flight look set to depart from Dawei airstrip to Yangon. Dawei and Kanbauk is about 30-min flight apart

My work requires me to meet people and listen to their problems. Often I need travel to remote locations, for this purpose. But who’s listening to my problems? Today I traveled to Kanbauk, some 280 miles south of Yangon to visit our staff at remote sites.

It was quite a new experience. To me both the journey is as important as the arrival.

We started at Yangon International Airport. It is a domestic terminal where airlines like Bagan Air, Yangon Airways, Mandalay Air and chartered flights call it home. It is located next to the new international terminal. Probably it was an original Yangon International Airport. Crowded and congested were not the right adjectives to describe the airport. It was rather relaxed but dull.

The airline personnel whisked us to a room at the corner of the building for a safety briefing. He turned on a video player and left without a word. A video was played. All safety features about the aircraft we were about to board were shown. Seat belt. Safety jacket. No smoking. Emergency exit doors. Bracing position in an unlikely event the plane went down abnormally. No oxygen mask though — why? Could it be they are not required or could it be they were already broken or could it be there was no oxygen cylinder on board. Don’t know.

It was a Twin Otter 300 with about 20-seater and 6 emergency exits. I have never seen emergency exits that so many for only 20 passengers.

We boarded the aircraft at 10:15 am and no other briefing was given while onboard. The stair which we climbed up into the plane – one person at one time – now turned into a door as it was folded up and slammed from outside by the pilot.

“Buckled up and we’ll be in Kanbauk in one hour twenty minutes”, said the co-pilot, before slamming the door.

He then hastily run around the plane and got in the cockpit thru one of six emergency exits. His companion revved up the engines until propellers reached some speed. The plane moved to the far-end of the runway and within 10 minutes we were up there in the sky with Yangon City sprawling under our feet.

Both pilots were white men, obviously seasoned aviators and they reminded me of Harrison Ford in the movie “7-days-and-6-nights”, except that they wore their company’s white uniforms.

There were only 6 passengers in this flight from Yangon to Kanbauk on 16th January 2009. Six emergency exits. One emergency exit each. We should feel safer.

The journey was smooth nevertheless. I managed to update my blog and then dozed off. Upon reaching Kanbauk, could see the coast line of Andaman Sea. The murky sea water merged into a big river mouth in between the mountains.  It was a mountainous region in Mon State in south-eastern Myanmar. Paddy fields and wooden houses occupied valleys between the mountains and dense forests. It was a cool view. The forest was virgin and seemed untouched, unlike in Malaysia where logging was regulated but not enforced. Not much logging activities noticeable from 15000 feet. The leaves were green and not so green due to dry and cold season. Gorges and plateaus made an amazing landscape. Sunlight fell on clouds and shadow created  such a wonderful contrast which could only be appreciated by professional photographers.

World is just awesome. Man can only paint such scenery but who created them all? I said subhanallah – God is ever gracious.

We touched down at 11:35 am as scheduled in Kanbauk. It was a private airfield with a short runway, surrounded by forest. It was utilized by oil and gas companies personnel. The plane swayed a bit upon a hard landing. It made a U-turn when it reached furthest end of the airstrip and taxied to its parking bay next to the only building — which I discovered later served as a maintenance workshop and arrival/departure hall, three in one.

I saw a helicopter at one side of the runway, being prepared for take-off to the offshore oil platform. A white man with a Heli Union printed on his white shirt was walking to the helicopter, followed by few tough guys, some carrying some kind of toolbox. But I am not going with them to offshore today. May be other time.

Inside the building, there is a small room which made up arrival and departure hall at the same time. There were blue seats facing a main door where we just came in. A Samsung video player attached to the TV set was on the rack next to the door. Arriving passengers were ushered to the back of the room whereas departing passengers were seated to watch a safety video, the same video we watched at Yangon on how many emergency exits and where they are and stuff like that.

The wall  is full of frames with various company logos. Upon close scrutiny, there were indeed Safety policies of various companies operating in and out of Kanbauk such as PCML, TEPM, Hevilift, Heli Union and others. These are all either multinational oil and gas players or service providers providing support services to the former. Obviously safety is of paramount concern in this type of business.

There was a table at the back manned by three national men in yellow coverall. One explained to us in broken but understandable English  that they were doing a random alcohol and drug testing to Company employees and contractors. He added that this is a Company policies, recently approved. He handed over two forms to me — consent form and refusal form. We had to fill up one only. I filled up the former. After all, I was part of that system.

Details were required by the form. The medication you took in the last 6 hours. I put down zinc, signed and handed back the form to him.

Then his assistant asked me to draw a small bottle from the plastic bag full of sample bottles. He showed me the toilet and asked me to fill up to the level indicated on the bottle with my urine. The bottle has 5 stripes one for each type of drug to be tested. Cocaine, marijuana, anti-depressant drugs are some of those. Could not remember the scientific names he mentioned. My female traveling companion teased them whether could she be tested for pregnancy as well. I said – just add another stripe. We all laughed. But men in yellow did not. They were serious like rock.

I got in the toilet, following their instruction like a first-grader on the first day at school.

Five minutes later, the test result was out. I was tested negative. Now we could proceed to the waiting four wheel drive vehicle.  It was a dusty Toyota Land Cruiser with big Hakook tyres and tall antenna perched on the front bumper.

The road was a dirt road so dusty so much so that green leaves turn red, being covered with dust. It seemed it never rained here for ages. We passed by a local village and a school painted in white and green. Children were having recess as some were playing football in their longyis. To me, these kids are the real investment. This country and this company need them to operate all our assets in 20-years time.

Fifteen minutes later, we reached our destination — a pipeline control center, fortified area sandwiched in between southern Myanmar mountain ranges. As the name implies, the center controls the transmission of natural gas from offshore gas field to Thailand.

The security fence was so high, seemingly as high as the tallest coconut trees. The security check was thorough. Our vehicle’s undercarriage was inspected using portable detector. Bags were searched for prohibited items. No lighters, mobile phone and camera allowed. We walked up some 50 meters to the site manager’s office. He was a medium-built white man. I found it later he is a Scottish.

The staff gathered in a meeting room — about 30 of them all in their working apparel. The whole idea of my trip is to communicate HR matters to them and at the same time getting their feedbacks. I shared the HR Department structure and roles and functions. My colleague shared the recruitment process and training procudures. Then we open the floor for question and answer session.

It was the first time I met my staff at this site. Except one or two or three, the rest of the staff in this shift are local, i.e. Burmese. They must have been wondering who the new HR Manager is? Will he be different than the previous one? Will he listen more to staff problem? Will he take action quick enough? Will he visit us more often? I guess the writing on the wall indicated that they were so eager to meet me and I was equally eager to meet them.  The pressure was mounting on me to show that I was the better one. Me and my staff delivered what we were supposed to deliver and the dreadful part started. Question and answer or in short Q&A. Questions came to me like bullets which could not wait. From the the most basic such as “why I did not qualify for long service award this year” to the hardest one like “my salary is hitting ceiling already, can you share the salary band?”.

The session took almost 6 hours with small breaks, and ended at about 8pm. The evening breeze was really cold outside when I walked to my dormitory to retire for the day. It was a room with two double-storey bed, a TV set, two cupboards, a coffee maker and an attached toilet.  Staff stayed in the same dormitory within the compound. Their world is within this heavily fenced compound. A cafetaria. A  soccer field. A run-down tennis court. A dormitory. Even a small room containing Buddha statue. All a man could ever need can be found here. Minus family and mobile phone signal.

SINGAPORE – Changi International Airport

May 5th, 2009

Tugas memaksa aku balik ke Kuala Lumpur lagi pada hari ini. Balik ke KL memang menyeronokkan, sesuatu yang aku look forward to. Boleh lepas gian makan roti canai dan teh tarik di restoran mamak yang bertaburan di mana-mana jalan dan simpang di KL. Selain dari itu, banyak benda boleh diselesaikan di KL, yang tak boleh dilakukan di Yangon seperti antaranya keluar duit gaji, tukar ke US Dollar dan bawa balik ke Yangon untuk belanja hari-hari di sana. Di KL juga boleh bayar hutang-hutang, ansuran rumah, made a few calls to friends and relatives.

Tapi perjalanan dari Yangon ke KL hari ini agak berbeza, agak tersasar. Tersasar ke Singapura kerana tiada penerbangan langsung Yangon-KL pada hari ini, yang selalu aku naiki. Tiada MH740 hari ini dan akibatnya tiada MH741 juga hari ini. Aku kena berada di KL pada jam 9 pagi hari Rabu, dan aku tiada pilihan lain kecuali mengambil Silk Air dari Yangon ke Singapura dan penerbangan SIA dari Singapura ke KL.

Yangon dilanggani oleh hanya beberapa syarikat penerbangan antarabangsa seperti Thai Airways, Malaysia Airlines dan Air China. Sistem ekonomi tertutup yang dilaksanakan oleh pihak tentera menyebabkan Myanmar tidak popular di kalangan komuniti bisnes. Setiap hari biasa, jumlah pelepasan antarabangsa di sekitar 6-7 pelepasan sahaja.

Kod penerbangan untuk Silk Air ialah MI dan penerbangan Yangon-Singapura menggunakan kod MI511.  Hari ini MI511 sarat dengan penumpang dan bertolak lewat daripada waktu jadual (10:10pagi). Seperti Air Asia, Silk Air menggunakan pesawat Airbus 320. Tempat duduk lebih luas dan selesa berbanding Boeing 737-400 yang digunakan oleh MH.

Masa penerbangan hampir sama dengan Yangon-KL iaitu 2 jam 40 minit. Laluan Perbezaan zon masa Myanmar dan Singapura ialah 1 jam 30 minit (sama seperti Malaysia). Dari Yangon, laluan penerbangan merentasi Lautan Andaman, kemudian melalui Teluk Siam dan wilayah Selatan Thai, pantai timur Semenanjung Malaysia dan terus ke Singapura.

Pesawat Airbus 320 jauh lebih canggih dari Boeing 737. Taklimat keselamatan menggunakan skrin yang tergantung dari atau overhead compartment. Skrin yang sama juga menayang filem komedi pendek. Kerani aku kat pejabat tidak membuat tempahan Moslem Meal. Peramugari beruniform hijau muda memberi kepastian mengenai makanan yang dihidangkan — semuanya dijamin halal, katanya. Tapi aku memilih fish fillet dan noodle sahaja.

Singapura memang destinasi popular rakyat Myanmar. Ramai rakyat Myanmar bekerja dan belajar. Selebihnya datang untuk melancong dan mendapat rawatan perubatan (bagi golongan berpendapatan tinggi Myanmar).

Satu lagi yang aku perasan ialah Bahasa Melayu digunakan dengan meluas di Changi Airport. Semua pengumuman dimulai dengan Bahasa Inggeris diikuti oleh Bahasa Melayu.

Untuk melengkapkan perjalanan aku ke KUL, aku menaiki Singapre Airline Boeing 777. Selepas 50 minit, aku tiba di KUL. Alhamdulillah, selamat sampai ke destinasi. Satu hari yang meletihkan di udara.

Self-esteem — another view

This two-word noun is often heard again and again in a corporate life. Corporate world is for individual with high self-esteem. Bosses send their staff to enhance their self-esteem. We are required to enhance our self-esteem. Yet there are people suffering from the low self-esteem.

So what is this self-esteem all about?

It is the value you assign to your self. It is about your worth as a person or human being. Society we live in assign different values to different people based on their status. They treat some as “somebody” and others as “nobody.” Why this thing happens? To them to be a “somebody” requires a good job,  above 2.0 cc car, a particular skill, even connections to other “somebody”. In short you need tons of money to be a “somebody”. Their self-worth is tied to what they DO, what they HAVE, not who they are. They are not human BEINGS. They’ve become human HAVINGS, and human DOINGS.

A person’s self-esteem must always be 100% because we are humans.  What we have and what we do cannot guarantee happiness. We can pretend to be happy for a while but deep inside we are suffering because we cannot accept who we are. We are not in harmony with our self.

A LESSON OR TWO:

“Accept our self as a human being, not human having nor human doings”.

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